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How to Sew PUL

How to Sew PUL

No need to prewash  PUL fabric should not be prewashed. It will not shrink. You can also leave cut edges unfinished; it will not unravel or fray.

No pins!  In a production setting pins are not used. Sew with coated side down. If you are sewing PUL to a stretchy lining, have the lining side up and adjust machine tension to compensate for the stretch. If you do not have this equipment, some ways to hold the layers together for sewing are hair clips, binder clips, or washable glue sticks.

Use a ball point or knits needle  On the sewing machine, use a universal, knits, or ball point needle. Do not use a "sharps" needle - you do not want to poke sharp holes in the fabric, you want a rounded tip needle to slide between the fibers of the poly knit. Use a small needle diameter: 70/11, 75/11 or 80/12.

Use polyester thread to prevent wicking  The thread should be 100% polyester. Make sure it is NOT cotton coated polyester - this can leads to moisture wicking along the seam line.

Sew with the coated side against the feed dogs  The laminate side of the fabric can stick to the presser foot. Sew PUL with the laminate side down. If you must sew laminate side up (for instance when making a wet bag), use a teflon foot, a walking foot, or lay thin paper over your seam.